A sad goodbye

My last week here in Semliki sped by at an incredible pace. It turned out that my last encounter with the chimpanzees was indeed the exhilarating time spent with them on Thursday evening and Friday morning – as good a final sighting as I could have hoped for.

Despite the absence of the chimpanzees, my final few days here have been wonderful ones. The forest was as enchanting as ever and still teemed with fascinating wildlife, even if its Great Ape inhabitants proved elusive. My last forest visits were spent filled with a bittersweet feeling as I trod the now familiar trails - excited at the thought of home and the family and friends that I shall return to there, but reluctant for my first chimpanzee-chasing adventure to come to an end.

I spent my last day in the forest desperately trying to imprint every image that flashed across my wandering eyes on my memory - not wanting to forget the view of the sun-drenched savannah stretching beyond the patchwork forest to the impressive slopes of the Rwenzoris; nor the image of the sun seeping through the canopy to illuminated the leaf-strewn trail, or the inquisitive gaze of a red-tailed monkey as it peered down through the leaves at me. I didn’t want a single memory of the forest to be lost, and so concentrated intensely in the attempt to take in my incredible surroundings for the final time during yesterday’s forest visit.

Though part of me didn’t want yesterday to end it inevitably did, and so it was with mixed feelings that I stepped out from the shade of the towering trees into the scorching sunshine and trudged up the slope into camp for the last time of this trip.

It was a feeling of sadness that first gripped me as I left the forest. I thought back over some of the amazing experiences I have had there – the elephant encounters; the hours of wading through the twisting river; the climbing and the views over the forest achieved from the treetops; and the sightings of slender serpents, iridescently-spotted guineafowl, playful monkeys and the many other wonderful creatures that the forest houses. Then of course there was the excitement of chimpanzee chasing and the joy of the incredible hours spent with the fascinating apes when we succeeded in catching up with them.

However, whilst I am reluctant to leave Semliki behind, butterflies flutter excitedly within me when my thoughts turn to home. I cannot wait to return to my much-missed family and friends and to share with them the stories, memories and photographs that I will take back with me. I also look forward to the flushing, fly-free toilets, piping hot power showers and other such luxuries that home will bring, and my stomach growls in anticipation when I think of the delicious home-cooked meals that await me.

I therefore felt ready to leave Semliki and keen to get to Entebbe, my final stop before the flight home, as we loaded the car and said our goodbyes this morning. Whilst sad to leave the collection of savannah-surrounded tents that has been my home for the past ten weeks and Edson and the other staff who have made my stay so enjoyable behind, I am now eager to return home.

As the thatched roofs of camp disappeared from view this morning I looked back over my time in Semliki and thought of the many incredible memories I shall return with. Semliki is a place that has made a big impression on me, and I am sure that my dreams shall often turn to the gently swaying savannah grass and the imposing Rwenzori backdrop that I have looked upon so often these past ten weeks when I am tucked up in my bed at home.

I feel that my first experience of field research gained here in Uganda has taught me a lot, and the course that my investigations have taken means that I leave with many new questions buzzing in my head that I would hate to leave unanswered. I would certainly love to come back to Semliki and to be able to put the lessons I have learned to good use and to hunt for the answers to those questions that now so intrigue me.

I therefore sincerely hope that this goodbye is not for good, and that one day I shall return to the stunning scenery, wonderful people and fascinating wildlife that Semliki is home to for another chimpanzee chasing adventure.

Written on Tuesday 14th September