In the Summer of 2010 I shall be going to Uganda as a research volunteer on the Semliki Chimpanzee Project. I will spend ten weeks following and studying the chimpanzees of Semliki Wildlife Reserve, learning the ropes as a fledgling chimpanzee chaser. This blog will chart the memorable animals, people and events that I encounter along the way and my experiences with the stars of the trip, the Semliki chimpanzees.

Saturday, 7 August 2010

The silver lining

It was on Saturday that Duncan and I received some slightly worrying news. It seemed that there had been a problem with the processing of the permits that we require to conduct research in Semliki. To cut a long story short the issue was that, whilst we had obtained verbal permission for our stay, the processing of the official written documents had been held up and the chief warden of Semliki Wildlife Reserve was kicking up a fuss about our lack of paper documents.

After a discussion over the phone with the people at the Ugandan Wildlife Authority (UWA) headquarters Edson revealed to us that we would need to go back to Kampala and visit the UWA office there in order to cut through all the red tape that was now surrounding the production of our permits. We would have to leave the next day as we required the documents before we would be allowed to continue our research in the reserve.

Initially I was annoyed at being caught up in such bureaucracy and reluctant to leave Semliki. However, I tried to look upon this unexpected excursion as a positive thing – a chance to treat myself to some rest, warm showers and large portions of meat and a break from the isolation of camp.

Our stay in Kampala so far has indeed been a good one. We have treated ourselves to some great meals out, including a visit to Uganda’s one and only revolving restaurant! We have also taken advantage of the large nearby supermarket to stock up on vast quantities of Cadbury’s chocolate among other luxuries.

Having long since run out of books to read at camp I have spent the last week in Semliki going slightly stir crazy trying to entertain myself in the expanse of evening left free once the typing up of data and other daily duties have been completed. I was therefore ecstatic to find a good bookshop here in Kampala and to be able to buy enough novels and crossword books to keep me occupied for the remainder of those vacant evening hours.


Being in Kampala has also meant that we were able to meet and greet the American students who will be joining us in Semliki for the remainder of our stay. David and Holly arrived this morning jet-lagged and struggling to recover from a long and arduous journey and with an impressive collection of bags and boxes of equipment in tow. They were instantly likable and I look forward to having them for company in my remaining weeks. It will be especially nice to have some female company at camp after being deprived of this for around a month now

It seems that every cloud does indeed have a silver lining, as despite my initial reluctance to leave Semliki, I feel that the last couple of days of rest and relaxation have done me good. I feel re-energised and am more keen than ever to get back to Semliki and the chimpanzees. I am now itching to return to camp and to continue my chimpanzee chasing adventure.


Written on Tuesday 3rd August

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